Planting a tree may seem like a simple task at hand. You dig a hole, take the tree out of the pot, put it in the ground, give it some water and like a miracle it grows like the vine in “Jack and the Beanstalk”. Right?
Fairytales are fun stories but not very reliable when it comes to horticultural advice. Who can you trust? Nurseries are in business to sell product, and they may send you home with planting accoutrements, such as tree stakes, soil amendments and fertilizer which may be absolutely unnecessary.
Your best bet is to follow the advice of the International Society of Arboriculture. They are the world's leading authority on tree care and are cutting edge when it comes to the latest scientific research. Interestingly, their findings are simple and in most cases will save you time, money, and produce a tree that grows amazingly fast and healthy.
Before you purchase your trees you’ll want to match them to the site in terms of existing soil, moisture conditions and available light. In other words do some research. Don’t select a tree that needs full sun for a shady location or a tree prone to root-rot in the lawn or swampy area. A Certified Arborist or Certified Nurseryperson should be able to help you with site specific tee selection.
Read on for the Latest Info on How to Plant a Tree:
Evaluate your soil. Unless you have true hardpan which is a hardened soil that is impenetrable even when saturated, you should not need elaborate soil preparation. Remember that most tree roots reside in the top 24 to 30 inches of the soil profile – and 60 percent of the root system will grow beyond the drip line (spread of branches).
It is a miscocnception that roots anchor in a downward fashion. The ability of a tree to anchor itself into the soil is based on its roots' ability to spread in an outward fashion. That is why trees often withstand hurricane force winds.
With this in mind you can fathom that the planting hole should not be an elaborate concoction of foreign materials. It is now known that the planting hole should in most cases not be amended with compost or peat. This makes sense once when you realize that usually within months, the root system has grown beyond the planting hole and is now in native undisturbed soil.
The idea here is that it is best to get the tree started in the native soil as soon as possible – thereby avoiding another transitional period. If you do add too much compost, capillary action may create a sponge effect – which can rot the root system. Water naturally moves to areas of least resistance. This is a problem, especially in heavy clay soil types.
Dig the hole 2 to 3 times wider than the width of the root ball and be certain not to make the hole deeper than the height of the root ball, to avoid settling. The root crown should be even with the soil grade or just slightly above. Remember that dirt covering the lower stem of the tree can cause crown-rot and subsequent demise.
Be certain to mulch the soil surface and make sure your new living treasure is provided ample moisture and in no time you'll believe in fairytales again.
Rod Whitlow - Rod Whitlow brings a Horticulture Rich Background with him to Suite 101.com. During his 30 years of working in the GREEN INDUSTRY Rod ...
